Mount Kenya Climbing Information
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Need
to know Information on Mount Kenya
Access
to the mountain.
Walking
routes to the peak area.
Sirimon
Route: This offers some of the best forest walking on Mt. Kenya. Bantu
Lodge provides a vehicle service to the roadhead. The track, 13km. from
Nanyuki towards Isiolo, is well signposted and leads through farmland for
10km. to the park gate (2650m.). Forest track to Judmeier Camp (3400m., 4
h.). Campsite on edge of moorland by stream 500m. before Judmeier Camp.
Now two options: 1. Eastern Variant. The track deteriorates to a boggy
path. Traverse then descend into the marshy Liki North Valley; hut and
pleasant campsites (3993m., 3½ h.). Climb over a ridge and descend into
Mackinder Valley; follow this to Shipton's Cave and slightly higher
Shipton's Camp (4236m., 3 h.), good campsites. 2. Western Variant This
involves fewer ups and downs but is wetter.
Chogoria
Route: From roadhead the fastest and most spectacular route to approach
Point Lenana. Driving from Embu two turn-offs are sign-posted "Meru
Mt. Kenya Lodge"; the second is better; dirt roads for 9km. to the
Forest Gate (1700m.). Now a track for 22km. (high clearance 4WD advised
even when dry) through beautiful rain forest, bamboo then parkland to the
Park Gate and Meru Mt. Kenya Lodge (3017m., 9 h. on foot). Campsite at
2700m., water in valley to south. There are fine walks in the
"Parklands" near the Park Gate. Now
two options: 1. Via Urumandi Hut. 5 mm. from the Park Gate turn left
and follow an overgrown track to the Kinithi stream, campsite, then on to
hut (3063m., 1 h.). Path over natural bridge then through heather
moorlands to roadhead, campsites, fine watertall (3300m., 1 h.).
2. Follow the main track, cross the Kinithi stream, pass special
campsite, and ignore turn-off right to Lake Ellis and Mugi Hill (2 h.).
Dry ridge with views over Gorges Valley to Hall Tarns and Minto's Hut
(4297 m., 5 h.); campsite and viewpoint over Lake Michaelson.
Walking
round the Peaks
Kami
Tarn to Hut Tarn. Steep screes lead to Hausberg Col (4591m., 30 min.).
Down scree to a boulderfield and Hausberg Tarn; between this and Oblong
Tarn bear off south-west up scree to a col beside the Western Terminal (1
h. 15 mm.); drop down, contour left across rock ledges (avoid descending
to Emerald Tarn'), then up slightly to Nanyuki Tarn and Hut Tarn (4480m.,
1 h.).
Hut
Tarn to Top Hut. From the tarn either descend directly to American Camp,
then join the Naro Moru route up the screes; or traverse left, then
descend slightly to Tyndall Tarn, continue below Midget Peak to a flat
outwash plain below Pt. John and Lewis Tarn. From here either join the
Naro Moru route to Pt. Lenana or head for the south-west tip of the Lewis
Glacier and climb this till level with Top Hut; either traverse to the hut
or continue to Pt. Lenana. Ice axe useful.
Point
Lenana. From Top Hut the ascent is straightforward but an ice axe or ski
stick is useful (1 h.). From Harris Tarn the North Ridge provides an
exposed scramble (grade 1+); the North Face, to the left of the ridge,
involves a left to right scramble and is slightly easier (1 h.). In icy
conditions these northern routes require proficient use of ice axe and
crampons. Harris Tarn can be reached in 40 min. from Simba Tarn or 1½ h.
from Kami Hut. Further information on peak area diagrams.
Porters
and Guides
We have
qualified porters who have wealthy of experience with Mt Kenya Trek for
more than five years each. They have good communication skills and first
aide handling. Friendly and dedicated team. Our porters are participants
in Mt Kenya clean up Campaign every year. Porters
carry 18kg. of clients' equipment and rarely provide their own rucksacks.
Our guides are qualified with long experience in treks and climbs graduating from outdoor leadership school and Kenya wildlife Service and have participated in Mountain rescue operations and are members to Mt Kenya Guides.
Special
Hazards
Other
than the Normal Mountain walking and climbing hazards the following should
be taken note of on Mt. Kenya.
ANIMALS
The
forest zone contains large numbers of buffalo and elephant. These animals
can be very dangerous, avoid walking at night through this zone and avoid
straying off the main tracks.
GETTING
LOST It
is easy to stray off the Naro Moru and Sirimon Routes during descent. If
lost avoid descending any further, particularly into the forest zone.
Either wait for better visibility - if necessary spend the night where you
are, or retrace your steps back uphill. Remember smoke attracts rescuers.
EXPOSURE
A warm day can rapidly turn very cold as the clouds build up and rain or
snow start to tall. Exhaustion and damp, sweaty clothes can cause a rapid
body cooling and finally hypothermia. Have warm clothes handy and eat
energy snacks regularly.
DEHYDRATION
Fluid loss occurs rapidly at high altitudes accentuating altitude
sickness. Drink copious amounts of fluids.
ACCIDENTS
In the event of an accident help can be summoned at the permanently manned
Ranger Post in Teleki Valley, at the Met. Station and at any of the three
main Park Gates; all of these locations are in radio contact with each
other and with Park Headquarters where the Rescue Team is based.
Weather, Climate and Seasons. Lying on the equator Mount Kenya is affected by the passage of the Intertropical Convergence Zone, which brings with it the main rainy periods. The highest rainfall occurs between late March and the middle of May, and slightly less between late October and mid December. Maximum rainfall occurs in the forest belt and on the south-east side of the mountain where it reaches 2500mm. per year at 3000m. Precipitation decreases with altitude and is about 700mm. per year at 4500m. Rain and, higher up, snow can however be encountered at any time of year - even in the driest periods (January and February). Normally the drier seasons are associated with clear, dry weather which can last for many days on end. The best weather is generally in the mornings, and convectional rainfall, if any, tends to come in the mid-afternoon.
Temperatures
vary considerably with height and with time of day. On the plains
surrounding Mount Kenya the average day temperature is about 25°C. At
3000m. frosts can be encountered at night while day temperatures range
from 5 to 15°C. Night time temperatures on the summit are well below
freezing. The south-facing side of Mount Kenya receives more sunshine in
the December to March period. During this time rock climbs are
"in-condition" and snow and ice climbs gradually deteriorate. In
the June to October period the north-facing rock climbs and south-facing
ice climbs are best.
Medical
Aspects
of high altitude mountaineering
You
should carry your own first aid kit and be familiar with its use. Problems
peculiar to the tropics and high altitudes need special attention.
Altitude
Sickness: Problems result from
the inability of the human body to adjust to a rapid gain in altitude and
range from mild cases of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), experienced to
some extent by most climbers, to the often fatal Pulmonary and Cerebral
Oedemas, the latter being far less common. A slow pace and copious fluid
intake (unless oedema is suspected) reduce the severity of Altitude
Sickness. Dehydration, even mild, leads to thickening of the blood with
increased possibility of pulmonary embolism or a thrombosis. Urine colour
should be pale and the output copious. (Oedemas are the accumulation of
liquid in a part of the body).
Symptoms of AMS include loss
of appetite, headache, nausea, vomiting, exhaustion, lassitude, weakness,
a rapid pulse even at rest, insomnia, swelling of hands and/or face and
reduced urine output. Climbers with severe symptoms must stop ascending
and seriously consider descending to a lower altitude, since often a drop
of as little as 500m. and a stay of a couple of days at that level will
allow recovery. The drug DIAMOX can sometimes help or prevent or reduce
the severity of AMS. With Pulmonary Oedema, additional symptoms may be
noticed - shortness of breath, even at rest, gurgling, bubbly sounds in
the chest and sometimes watery blood-tinged sputum. Skin may be cold and
clammy, lips and finger nails bluish. With Cerebral Oedema, severe
headache, hallucination and lack of co-ordination are additional symptoms.
Treatment: IMMEDIATE DESCENT.
Pneumonia:
This can kill, in some cases very rapidly. Symptoms include rise in
temperature, pain in chest, shivering, rapid breath and dry cough
sometimes with red mucus. Cure involves keeping the patient warm, getting
him to lower altitudes, providing warm drinks and antibiotics, and by
beating chest to encourage coughing.
Sun:
At an altitude of 4,000m, only about 60% of the harmful UV sunlight is
filtered out by the atmosphere. This can result in very rapid burning of
exposed skin; lips are particularly badly affected. Good suncreams are
recommended. Dark glasses with side panels should be worn when crossing
snow to prevent snow blindness, even in misty conditions. Snow blindness
is painful and feels like sand in the eyes; rest and eye drops help; great
care is required to avoid rubbing eyes (bandaging?).
Hygiene:
Do not pollute streams by washing yourself or catering-utensils in them.
These are water supplies for you and other people. If there is no latrine
dig a private hole for your excrement as far as possible from camps or
paths, using an ice axe or stick, then refill it neatly. Do not leave
rubbish lying around. Some, such as food and paper can be buried in
well-vegetated zones, but tins, bottles, metal foil and plastics must be
carried out.
Basic
First Aid Kit: Aspirin or
Paracetamol for headaches and fevers. Throat lozenges for dry throats. Lip
salve. Crepe bandages, tape and gauze. Eye drops, e.g. Optrex. Soap for
washing wounds. Mild disinfectant wash. Anti-Diarrhoea medicine, e.g.
Imodium. A laxative. Diamox for mountain sickness; a side effect of this
drug is a tingling sensation in the extremities. Stronger pain killer,
e.g. Fortral or Sosogen. Antibiotics for pneumonia or other major
infections. Water purifiers.
Information and recommendations contained in this section should be regarded as a guide only. More detailed information can be obtained from specialised publications such as ‘Medicine for Mountaineering’ (The Mountaineers, Seattle, USA).